If your using Windows XP, and have a default install on the OS, thats probly your problem. XP has a 'read only' attribute to all folders and files within the Program Files directory, so if you remove a file, and replace it as you did with the map0.mul, it basicly doesnt allow it. It acts as if the files just missing, even though its right there.
Try a simple approach, and move the Ultima Online folder out of the Program Files directory... like, drop it on your desktop. Change the files while its out there, and then move it back into the Program Files directory.
You might want to try this after a fresh reboot of your system.
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